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Harvey Shirt Sew-Along Part 1: Yoke & Pleat

Posted by Betsy C on

Let's dive right in, shall we?....But first a few notes: I am not including directions for when to serge the edges. Everyone has their preferences- some before sewing and some during. I will leave this to your discretion. 

Secondly, have fun and remember perfection is overrated. Accomplishment is the goal. Heck, I did all the sew-along pictures in one day. It was a lot of work and I had to go fast. Is my stitching absolutely perfect? Nope. But I'm ok with that because I think You'll get the gist because you get it. 

Let's go!

1. On the wrong side of the front body pieces, sew the side seam bust darts for both sides of the front body. Press dart downwards.

*Tip: at the endpoint of the darts, my preference is to tie off rather than backstitch 

to reduce any possible dimples.

2. Make the pleat at the center back body. Fold in the outer notch to match to the center back notch. Baste in place along the top edge and iron flat.

Now, some of you may prefer the "burrito method." I kinda like to do it quick and dirty and this is my method. The back will look clean finished on the inside, but the front shoulders will have visible seam allowance. For my own garments, I'm totally ok with this because it still looks good on the hanger and no ones ever going to see the front internal seam. The moral of the story: pick your battles. 

3. With right sides together, join the back body to the back yokes (1/2” (1.2cm). Sandwich the back body between the two yoke pieces and stitch through all layers.

4. Pull up the back yokes and ensure yoke/back body seams are ironed flat. Align yoke edges together (wrong sides together). 
Edgestitch above the yoke seam through all layers. Change to basting stitch once you reach the armhole. Baste around the entire perimeter of the yokes stopping at opposite side yoke/body seam with 1/4” (.6cm) width.
This stitching around the neckline will also serve as a good stay-stitch to keep the neck shape and avoid stretching.
5. With right sides together, sew front and back shoulder seams together with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance.

Press the seam allowances up towards the yoke and edgestitch the seam through all layers. Repeat for opposite side.

In the next post I will be covering how to make the sleeve and to do the sleeve slit binding. 

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