You can use the same fabric your entire hoodie, including the cuffs and the bottom bands. Depending on how stretchy your fabric is, you can pull the bands tighter for a snugger fit if so desired. The bottom band is already drafted to allow for some stretching when joining to the body, so make sure to follow the notches.
If you are using rib trim, this allows for even more stretch and you can make it much tighter. I would start off by making the rib knit 2" smaller for the total circumference. You can sew it in with a basting stitch to see how you like it and take it out to make it tighter or looser as desired.
Many rib knits come in a round, so the width is easily maxed out and you may have to join at the side seams.
Let's get started!
Making the Bottom Bands:
- With wrong sides together fold your hem band in half and iron flat.
- If you are using rib knit trim you will need to re-establish the center back by dividing in two sections. Then to establish where to meet the side seams, you will divide the center back and center front. I usually just mark with a pin and use the same pin to secure to the side seam.
- Match the notches/pins to the seams and stretch the bottom band as you sew.
(Here is an example to show you how much shorter I made the rib knit trim)
The bottom hem will look a little wavy and wobbly, but no worries as this will be ironed out.
- Do a center front check, ensuring that bottom band is the same height on both sides. If it does not match, redo the side that is not the proper height.
- Add optional topstitch above the bottom hem band, securing all seam allowance upwards. At this point, iron flat.
Make the cuffs
(I made the cuffs 1" smaller than the pattern piece for rib knit. )
- With right sides together, sew the cuff bands along the length.
- Fold the cuff bands in half so the wrong sides are together. Iron flat.
- Sew the cuff band to the sleeve, matching the inseams and stretching to fit.
- Turn the cuff right side out. You can add a topstitch above the cuff seam, but I find that this stretches a little too much, beyond recovery and your sleeve becomes more rounded above the cuff seam.
Coming up Next 1/15: Inserting the zipper
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